Where the eagles of Crete dare
Today we would be entering a new world, although at that time we did not know it. In our continuous search for new areas and places to offer our visitors, we had come across something spectacular. Today we were going to visit the area in question and see what the eastern slopes of Psiloritis had to offer.
Psiloritis, or Mount Ida, at 8057 feet (2.456 m, 35 ° 13 ’38 .45? N, 24 ° 46 ’15, 22 “E) is the highest mountain in Crete, and is more than 1000 meters higher than Ben Nevis. The great Cretan writer Nikos Kazantzakis mentioned it often and many Cretans consider it a powerful symbol of the island. Although challenged by the claims of the Dhiktean cave in the nearby Lassithi mountain range, the Idaion Andron cave is also reputed to be Being the birthplace of Zeus and the continent of Europe is named after Europa, one of his amorous conquests. A romantic interlude, which as any Cretan will tell you, happened on the south coast of the island. It is also notable for the location of the walk following the kidnapping of General Von Kreipe by the Cretan resistance and the Executive of Special Operations during World War II. The film of the events “I will meet in the light of the moon”, starring Dirk Bogarde, was based on the book by W. Stanley Moss (ISBN 0-304-35259-4).
We note that the 60 km journey to Heraklion airport is done on “automatic pilot”. Familiarity, sadly, breeds contempt or, at least, indifference. The highlight, depending on wind conditions, is the descent through the Selenari Gorge, where griffon vultures (Gyps fulvus) fly effortlessly in thermals. Further down the route, Malia’s banana and potato vendors line the side of the same roads, which in summer will be awash with youths dressed in soccer jerseys and hungover partygoers looking for a “full English breakfast.”
Passing the airport, we turn south on a new and impressive road that takes us towards Archanes and Peza, the wine region south of the capital. We continue south to Agia Varvara and realize that we have sailed past our detour, although we see a spectacular rock monolith that we might have otherwise missed. After the usual questions (and many gestures and gestures) we took the north road to our date with Ioannis. The road wound up the eastern slopes of the mountain and we couldn’t resist stopping to see two tombs, carved out of the rock, on the side of the road. As is often the case in Crete, there was no information about them. In fact, I like this aspect of the island because almost nothing is on a plate for you. If you are interested, you should seek out the information which, in turn, may lead to other discoveries.
The town had a fabulous church, with a very modern chapel at the entrance. We drove and asked again for directions at the kafeneion where the owner led me to the balcony. He pointed to the hotel and told me how to get there. After several attempts to go the short way and several backtracking operations through very small and narrow streets, we finally took the long way and found ourselves at the door of the suites. Ioannis, the manager, made us feel very welcome and we were impressed by the level of furnishings and facilities in an apparently “non-touristy” area. There are only four suites, but with a wonderful pool and spa center, it is a perfect place for a relaxing vacation. It is also centrally located for exploring the island and an ideal location to see the main archaeological sites.
In the great tradition of Cretan “philoxenia” we were naturally invited to join the family for lunch in the hotel tavern. The succulent roast pork, we were informed, had been cooked by the owner and served with traditional baked potatoes and a variety of vegetables, sauces and salads, washed down with a local red that is bottled specifically for the hotel. Eagles and other raptors flew around the area and Ioannis was so familiar with them that he even had individual names for some. It was almost impossible to look away from the incredible views across the plain to the distant mountains of the Dikti Range, but it was time to leave and make our way home. With simple instructions from our host, we were back on the main road in five minutes and out of Heraklion in another ten.
With an area almost equal to England, Crete never fails to have another surprise around the corner. What, I wonder, will next week bring?